València

Our hotel in the center of València

We left Barcelona thinking we may have visited the nicest city in the world.  Much to our surprise, we like València even better.  Located on the Mediterranean and founded around 138 BC by the Romans, València is Spain’s third largest city after Madrid and Barcelona.

Needless to say, it has an incredibly rich history that is reflected in the city’s compelling blend of ancient and fantastically modern architecture.  This was the site of conquest and crusades; with occupation by Romans, Vandals, Visigoths, Moors and other Muslim dynasties, Christian Crusaders and the English to name a few.  It is worth noting given the world in which we live in today, that this city in the 13th century was the home of great conflict between its Muslim, Jewish and Christian inhabitants.

Like Barcelona, the first language spoken here is not Spanish.  Whereas the Barcelonan’s speak Castilian, the primary language here is Valèncian.  Unlike Barcelona where all the signs are in three languages, most of them here forego English.  Nevertheless, we find it easy to communicate and get around.  The metro system is again excellent.

Along the road to València

The four-hour drive along the Mediterranean coast from Barcelona was a real treat.  In addition to some splendid scenery, the roads are in excellent shape and Europeans are simply much better drivers than Americans.  They stay in the right lane exclusively, except to pass, and are uniformly courteous.  People are not driving while holding a cell phone to their ear, there is no road rage and all the drivers are actually using their rear view mirrors.  Having driven a car across most of Europe over the years I know that to be true throughout the continent.  We are driving an underpowered diesel (Opel Infinity) with a manual transmission, so I am usually staying at the recommended freeway speed of 120 kph (75 mph) and we are continually getting passed by Audi’s, BMW’s, Mercedes and the like.  Over 98% of the cars sold in the States come with an automatic transmission.  Throughout Europe, the reverse is true.  There are no speed cops on the roads.  Every so often there is a fixed radar installation monitoring speed and presumably sending you a speeding ticket in the mail if you are going too fast, but these are all clearly marked with large signs well ahead of time in order to give you the chance to slow down.  How civil is that!

The one mistake we made was to travel along a toll road.  When given the option on the GPS to avoid them we figured the toll roads would be easier and maybe cost us around $5.  Imagine our surprise when it costs us nearly $80!  We won’t make that mistake again.

Inside the central Cathedral

Babe and I agree that we could both live in this incredibly beautiful city.  If Barcelona is vibrant and sophisticated, València seems somehow more genuine, relaxed and less touristy.  Formula One runs the European Grand Prix in this city which is considered to be one of the gastronomic epicenters of Europe and the home of paella.  Nearby is where they grow the saffron and special rice that most Spaniards use to make this delicious staple.  We visit one of the elegant restaurants in town with an excellent reputation for serving seafood paella and are not disappointed.  Our meal is fabulous, helped along by the excellent Spanish wine.  Throughout our trip we sample the local wines; I’m drinking the full-bodied reds and Babe the whites or champagnes.  All of them are both sumptuous and inexpensive.

Science Museum Complex

Much of our time in the big cities is spent simply wandering the streets.  On our first day we wander into the famous València Cathedral.  The exterior walls date from the 13th century and look like the walls around a moat.  They belie the outstanding artwork inside; give the Catholic Church credit for supporting an endless source of artistic endeavor.  The central market here is throbbing.  Locals are here to buy staples and get deals; the tourists are here for souvenirs.

Returning from a bookstore where I stopped in to buy a climbing guidebook we walk down a street where several people are sitting around smoking crack.  It is only one block off the main square.  We politely decline when one of the dealers offers to sell us drugs and subsequently learn that Spain has become the new Amsterdam with respect to its lax drug laws.  Interestingly, the crack scene in València felt much safer than I have encountered in other places like Lawrence, Massachusetts.  Still, cocaine is one insidious and destructive drug.

Aquarium grounds

That night we sit outside for dinner next to a delightful couple from Norway and Germany.  We are dining around 10 PM as is the custom here, one we have heartily embraced.  They tell us about the Ciutat de les Arts I les Ciències (City of Arts and Sciences) and their visit to the aquarium there.  They are so enthusiastic about it that we decide to visit the next day.

Wow, we are not disappointed.  Designed by Santiago Calatrava and Felix Candela, the architecture rivals any in the world for its elegance and inspiration; the modern equivalent of Gaudi.  A least a dozen buildings devoted to education and entertainment show off the continuing brilliance of Spanish architects. 

Jellyfish like creature with incredible light show

We buy tickets to the Aquarium where we spend several hours in this outstanding venue.  The jellyfish and seahorse tanks are among our favorites, but the highlight is a dolphin show like you might find at Sea World, only the human trainers here are active participants in the show.  They ride the dolphins and get tossed up in the air up to 30 feet, incredible to watch and not something either of us has seen previously.

Yee Haw!

Next to the Aquarium is a Science Museum.  We don’t have time to see it, but do eat lunch there and play in large inflatable balls floating on one of the reflection pools.  These clear plastic balls are big enough to stand up in.  After you get in one, the attendant fills it with air and closes up the waterproof zipper, leaving you to flounder inside.  Both of us try “walking” on the water, but the instability inevitably causes us to fall and we are reduced to crawling inside.  It was a bit foolish, but fun nevertheless.  Babe is envious of my balance as she lurches around inside her ball like a drunken sailor.

On to Madrid.

Me gracefully showing Babe how it's done